I am so excited to share my Window & Door Trim DIY REVEAL! It turned out BETTER THAN I EXPECTED (and I have high expectations for the most part) This DIY was worth the time it took and it was so affordable…with huge impact on the rooms décor. I made a point to do it entirely myself to show that, “If I can do it, YOU can too.” With help from the lumber guys, I should mention…I had all the wood pieces cut to my pre-measured sizes at Lowe’s. So worth it, FREE, and the pay off was I did not have to get Captain involved in transporting them home, the wood easily fit into my small VW Beetle. If you do not have a store that will cut wood, the pieces are not wide so a handsaw or jig saw would work, and a circular saw is even quicker.
Last week’s Part I post showed my gathered inspiration. Well, it took me 4 days to complete the project. My hours are fairly lacks starting late morning, eating lunch, running around to get supplies and quitting by 4pm. I have to say, a lot of that time was spent multi-tasking laundry & cooking; so my guess is that most people would do the job in half the time if they are prepared & not scattered as I seem to be.
Big difference, right?
3 Good Reasons to add trim molding or beef-up existing molding, it will…
- Define your decorating style.
- Balance the room by giving more attention upwards.
- Architectural detail increases the perceived value of a space. $: )
Some tips I learned
- Draw a rough diagram of window/door with measurements and size wood pieces needed. Take it and a measuring tape with you to the store.
- I bought white pre-primed wood. The cost is not that much more. It was a pressed wood, not regular wood, so had less warp and no knots. Sanded easily where I wanted to soften the hard edge.
- Put up the sides first, pieces D of the window diagram, leveling them as much as possible, then the topper can just rest on them and be level.
- Pre Drill the A & C then nail to B BEFORE putting up. In other words make the top unit first then attach to wall.
- Pre Drill B and hammer in nails til just peeking through backside before attaching unit to wall.
- Use a strong wood adhesive like Liquid Nails on backside of B before unit is nailed to wall.
- Piece D, on the door diagram, was an after-thought because it needed something more to blend the door frames with the new plainer topper. I used foam molding so it was easy to adhere with liquid nails, no nails needed.
- Paint trims & moldings with a Semi-Gloss or High Gloss paint using a professional bristle brush, like Purdy. For paint, I found Home Depot Behrs brand to go on more smoothly than Lowe’s Valspar brand. If your paint is sticky or too thick, thin it with Floetrol or similar paint additive – not water.
- Take your wood measurements and have store cut them. I marked my wood pieces immediately after cut according to my diagram. Less confusing when I get home so get started faster.
Captain had his own project going on outside the whole time I was inside banging on the walls. His project is a big one, removing the fig ivy vine to make way for a new side-fence, to replace the rotted falling down one. Also in the process he is “developing” a plan for his bonsai area of the patio, which has been temporarily moved elsewhere.
Depending on the results I will have him share that in a post when he is done. Ok, I do think he secretly wants a blog of his own, altho it would include things with wheels.
Thanks for Meeting Me Lakeside!